bhbestcustoms wrote: ↑Apr 02, 2020 9:38 am
@AdamDK Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. That is some great information that has and will help me out a lot. I was certainly not expecting to have to use so much resin. I am certainly not on an endless budget especially as I am back as a student again, but want to make sure I dont skimp out either. I have waited this many years to rebuild my vector and want to make sure I make it the best it can be and something that will last many years to come.
I have just finished up reading Ron Pratts thread as well as yours.
Have to say you are doing an amazing job so far and cant wait to see some updates in the near future. Your thread has given me many ideas that I never even considered. I did not have any intention of splitting the hull ( mostly because when I joined back in 2012 everyone advised me not to lol) but maybe something I should consider? Looks like it would give much better access and room to work.
I split the hull because my rubrail was pretty beat up, and I like the look of a black rubber rubrail better than aluminum anyways. So it was no big deal for me to "lose" it.
Do you have a rough idea of how much 1.5oz CSM and 1708 biaxle I should expect to use? or at least a good starting point to order.
Depends on width you get. Most glass is sold by the yard (3ft) and either 38" or 50" width. For a 17' Vector, you should order at least 30 yards of CSM. 90 feet may seem ridiculous, but its not considering 1 single layer of glass in your hull would eat up 34 feet. Same goes for 1708. You need to keep in mind that along with glassing the hull first after grinding, you'll then need to glass over top of all the core you lay down. You'll be using glass between your transom layers. Over the transom and out each side and at the bottom of it. Over the stringers. Glassing both sides of the floor. (Yes, you should glass the underside of the floor as well). Glassing the deck (if you choose to do so).
The one thing I learned about rebuilding this boat is that whatever you think you may need, multiply it by 3. Probably 4.
I see you grounded down any fiberglass that has been cured before laying over again. What is the recommended grit to use to ensure proper bond?
Roughest possible. The brazed cup wheel I used is 36 grit. Flap discs are quite common too. Try to stay coarser than 60 grit. It was simply inconvenient timing when I started my glass work, and since I could no longer get a chemical bond due to the time that elapsed, I had to re-grind for a mechanical bond.
Where exactly would you use "peanut butter" from some of the threads I have seen I am under the impression it is basically used in a similar way as body filler would be in cars? but actually has some structural strength to it to fill any voids/transitions?
Not so much structural strength. Resin itself is brittle. The majority of use for "peanut butter" is filling voids, etc, but also to make a curved edge along right angles. Fiberglass is still glass, and doesn't like hard bends. PB would be used to give a curve at say the bottom of a stringer where it meets the hull, so the glass can be laid on the bottom and then curve up the side of a stringer.
Is there a particular reason you chose to use corebond over just laying with fiberglass and resin?
It was
@alaskastreamin Ron Pratt's suggestion. He swears by it, and since I wanted to rebuild my Viper similar to his, with Frankenstein-ing some of
@proprider's ideas, It seemed the best choice. I asked that question myself here:
https://www.hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2922
My goal is to get all my materials priced and ordered over the next month in hope to start the restoration back up in hopes early to mid May. I apologize for all the questions as I said when it comes to boats I am certainly a newbie but greatly appreciate any and all help from anyone here. Time to get back to reading some more restoration threads! lol.
Thank you,
Brad
