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This is what I got. a harber freight special [ Post made via Android ]

Thats pretty much what I used and it worked pretty good for me.

Streamer wrote:QR_BBPOST
Anyone here found an easy way to remove the factory rub rail?

I was doing my best to keep mine in tact. There sure is a lot of rivets I didn't want to go there.

[ Post made via Android ]

Yes...there is a lot of rivets!! And if I didn't have to, I wouldn't remove mine. It's a little rough anyway.
In order for me to make the repairs/changes I want the deck has to come off.

I am building this as light as I can, so anything that doesn't have to be there or have a purpose is coming out.

I'm not as flexible as I used to be, and the crawl space up under the bow and gunnels are to tight for me to work in.

Yes, that mask looks like a good one for sure...beats the paper ones hands down..

I'll pull some pics out of my phone, and maybe start a new thread. I have just begun to separate the deck, so when I get to where I can post some pics that show that I will post them. Right now the boat is stripped of all hardware and the floor is out. I have started removing the core and stringer box. Fortunately this boat and the vector both have windshields that are intact and usable. Those will go back on both boats.

James

Streamer wrote:QR_BBPOST Fortunately this boat and the vector both have windshields that are intact and usable. Those will go back on both boats.

Your lucky mine has a cracked windshield. At least its on the side.

[ Post made via Android ]

Actually my V-King windshield has 2 tiny cracks near the bottom, one on each side. I drilled a small 1/16 inch hole in the tip of the crack to stop it from growing. Small enough I don't care to worry about the $500 replacement.

I have seen pictures of several boats where guys have taken their cracked windshields and made repairs to them for structural integrity (fixed cracks), then painted the windshield black and reinstall it. It looks great that way, and is still functional as a windbreak. It's not like you need to see through it anyway. It sets to low.

From what I have read it does also help keep the angle of the boat lower when at speeds of being aired out and flying. This is the biggest reason I want to keep the windshield in place. Painted or not.

And last but not least, I do like the look of the boat with the windshield in place. JMO...

I keep going back to the first few pics of your boat and motor....sure do miss that ol 79 Merc 200 I had back in the day. I had it on a 15' Checkmate that I gutted and built it up lightweight, with a stronger transom. It was a handful at WOT, but fun!! That Checkmate was a pad V, but the pad was not completely flat like our boats. One reason I think these streams are more stable at speed.

James

Got some more work done on my core removal and put a hole in the bottom some of this core is rock solid and I am getting spider cracks in the gel on the bottom trying to get it out. Sucks I guess its going to happen tho.
Got most of the stringers out now to. getting work done

[ Post made via Android ]

Yes, the actual hull is thin, but if your careful with a grinder you should be able to get it flat and smooth (smooth with a #36 grit finish ) without further hull breach.

I don't mean by any means to come off as an expert, I'm not. Please don't read that into this. I have restored more than a few boats in my past from junk yard junk, to a couple high speed rigs all needing stringer work and new transoms. However, this is my first Hydrostream restore. I offer these suggestions just to give you options to think about trying in order to save you from extra repair work.

A 4 inch and or a 7 inch angle grinder works nice..puts a lot of glass dust in the air, but ultimately when done leaves a good flat surface to bond to with your choice of resin, or epoxy, etc.
Go as far as you can with the hammer and chipping, but grind the rest.
Below are a few links to some tools to consider, if you don't already have them.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-43-amp-angle-grinder-60625.html

http://www.lowes.com/pd_470357-1069-12600___?productId=4747437&pl=1&Ntt=flapper+wheels

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-11-amp-heavy-duty-angle-grinder-69454.html

http://www.lowes.com/pd_195713-1069-3083___?Ntt=gator+3-pack+7-in+w+x+7-in+l+36-grit&UserSearch=gator+3-pack+7-in+w+x+7-in+l+36-grit&productId=1056685

I just bought one of these to try. Read on S&F a few threads where guys used these with cutting tips to get through hard to reach places ( like the foam boxes in my boat ).

http://www.lowes.com/pd_492891-70-DWE315K___?productId=4780961&pl=1&Ntt=dewalt+oscillating+tool

Haven't tried it yet, but will and report back.

Hope this helps and is not offensive in any way...it's not meant to be anything but a suggestion.

Still a little envious of your 79 Merc..

James

Thanks I am going to have start grinding this core out the hammers are to rough on it. Also now I am pulling the windshield so I can flip it over to 're gel the bottom after I get the core down. Also looked at the transom and its really wet at the bottom. Going to have to come out. so I got a long way to go. [ Post made via Android ]

Streamer wrote:QR_BBPOST
Hope this helps and is not offensive in any way...it's not meant to be anything but a suggestion

All comments are welcome good or bad I am learning as I go.

[ Post made via Android ]