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Re: 83 V-King (Bruiser) Restoration

Posted: Mar 22, 2017 7:28 am
by AdamDK
After removing the old core, you will need to grind down the surface to remove old resin and wood that's leftover after removal. So essentially you're making your already thin hull even thinner. Most people will lay down a layer or two of CSM to the inside hull before putting new core on top of that.

Re: 83 V-King (Bruiser) Restoration

Posted: Mar 22, 2017 8:53 am
by Hippie459MN
Is that one picture with the hole drilled in it the transom? If so, it looks like someone replaced it with SeaCast cause if it was the original trasonm, that would have been all wood.

Yes, what I did was put down 2 layers of CSM (chop strand mat) before bedding the core down.

As for filling the sections with foam, dont do it! Leave em open with reliefs so the water can drain. If you fill the void with foam you risk water getting trapped in there with no way for it to get out.

Re: 83 V-King (Bruiser) Restoration

Posted: Mar 22, 2017 5:59 pm
by 83VKING
That is so thin yikes!! i do plan on sanding again to ensure a very smooth even surface. I am glad i can put base layer of CSM inside the hull before the core. im sure i can search over the forum to see what everyone uses to attach the core to the hull, but do you recommend something specific?

From what i could see, there was no indication of someone replacing the transom. everything was original and could not find anything that would indicate a transom replacement but i could be wrong. that said i did have a question about the transom. I drilled down 1" and it was solid with this seacast resin harder material. after 1" it was all wood.(that is why put a screw driver there, i stopped drilling once i hit wood.) Hydrostream put wood all the way to the top of the transom even in 83? i dont know if they were experimenting with new material or not. the transom was a nightmare to take out. it was mostly wet wood, still verry much intact. as i was peeling it away i noticed several layers of CSM in between plywood. did hydrostream do this sandwich method of layering CSM in between the wood?

I will post more pictures of the transom. it will give a better perspective.

As for the foam on top of the core. i agree with you. i will leave it out. as i was removing the core i found hydrostream put some on top of the core and i have no idea how water could get there but it must of been there for years seeping though the floor.

Re: 83 V-King (Bruiser) Restoration

Posted: Mar 22, 2017 8:08 pm
by 83VKING
When i took the top off, i found this.. it was solid as a rock.. still needs to come out for a full resto!

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When I was taking out all of the old gauges and wires, i found that Hydrostream ran the wire harness before they put foam up along the sides? the wires ran through the foam.. haha has anyone else found this in any of their streams? maybe in 83 they were going over board with the foam? i though it was pretty funny. .

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Re: 83 V-King (Bruiser) Restoration

Posted: Mar 22, 2017 8:31 pm
by Hippie459MN
Yeah, that transom has been repaired before. Hydrostream never used SeaCast. Please do not put SeaCast back in there. While some people have used it and not had problems, I would not trust it on a high performance boat. Plus, a full SeaCast transom is heavier than wood.

When I did my transom, we sandwiched some csm and a thick layer of rein with cabisil (could use core bond too im sure) between each layer of wood. Used 3 pieces of 1/2 inch. If you look at my Vulture rebuild topic (link in my sig) you can see how we went about it for the most part.

Re: 83 V-King (Bruiser) Restoration

Posted: Mar 23, 2017 8:30 pm
by 83VKING
i will not use SeaCast. i agree that the stuff is not for performance boats. i will absolutely use wood and sandwich it just like you and many others. i believe the wood is unbelievably strong when glassed right.

once i put a layer of CSM down, wet the bottom side of the core (mat side) then lay it on.. put something heavy on top to weigh it down? should i wait until it the bottom of the core is cured to put 1708 on top? or can i do it all at the same time?

I plan on glassing the stringers to the hull before the core goes in.

Re: 83 V-King (Bruiser) Restoration

Posted: Mar 23, 2017 8:45 pm
by AdamDK
If you need to weigh down the core, then you can't put glass/resin on top because it will also bond to the items you're using for weight (ie cinder blocks, pails, sandbags etc.)

You can do it all at once if you were vacuum bagging the core.

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Re: 83 V-King (Bruiser) Restoration

Posted: Mar 23, 2017 8:57 pm
by 83VKING
that is true.. i feel like the core should bond and cure before i 1708 the top. After i remove the foam on the sides, have you seen anyone core over the wings? I feel as though this would benefit the structure even more. before i even think about the stringers/core. do you suggest i complete the transom first?

Re: 83 V-King (Bruiser) Restoration

Posted: Mar 23, 2017 10:14 pm
by Hippie459MN
What I did the first time around (Yes, my boat has had the core replaced twice since I have owned it and it has never been in the water yet) was we put down 2 layers of CSM then we took some resin with cabosil and put down a pretty thick layer then set the core down on it and put a bunch of weight on top of it then when it was cured, we then would have done the 1708 but didnt get that far. Long story...

Here is the Cabosil and the place I bought it from. They are local to me and a lot of members have purchased from them. Great great people

http://www.expresscomposites.com/?product=caosil-fumed-silica-thickener-2

I think the 2nd time around at the core job, Brian used hull and deck putty or some kind of core bond and that came from Mertons fiberglass & marine.

Re: 83 V-King (Bruiser) Restoration

Posted: Mar 24, 2017 9:57 am
by RussF
hey 83VKing I'm in the next town over from you