let the fun begin

[YDOC462]

well the guy made it this weekend with the vector. i felt bad making him take the 3 hr drive to make the swap for the vulture, i had my son and couldnt get away. he was ready that day so i guess i really didnt mind . he spent the friday night before the trip working on the trailor, swaping the axel before he left. guess it worked, he made it in one peice. glad the trailor is road-worthy, it'll help when i start hauling it back and forth to the body shop when i get ready to paint. the guy really wanted the vulture so we made the swap.

the vector looks good. core and transome are completely rotten.

TONS of foam!!! looks alot like viper's v-king. has some "float boxes" glassed in the sides ill some questions on later (ive havent seen alot of streams w these , but i dont know sh*t compared to yall, so maybe yall can help me when i come to that bridge)

hull is better condition than the vulture. no cracks in hull (vulture had some), no bubbles in laminate ( vulture had some), no patch jobs that ill have to fight with ( vulture had alot!) few stress cracks around the windshield that will be taken care of when i get there and some holes that will be filled in before paint.

one cool thing i liked is it has the original steering wheel and dash panels. i will try and save and use these when i put it back together.

BEST OF ALL IT FITS IN THE GARAGE!!!!

anyways im excited about getting started. heres a few pics from the previous owner and at her new home with me.

[77viper]

From the looks it should be good and rotten, I think everyone that has done one will agree the more rotten the better for a restoration project.

The one problem with reusing the steering wheel is it has a square shaft and the new systems will have a 3/4" tapered shaft. Someone had a adapter made but I can't remember who it was.

Great looking project, I still might own a vector someday. Ask any questions you have and someone should be able to answer them.

[VultureNo2]

Nice boat. Should be fun to restore. Chet, I am still looking for that adapter you are talking about because I also want to keep the same wheel.v I have had a conversation with the guy from Teleflex and he claimed to have the proper converter but asked me some technical questions I couldn't answer without the part in my hand. I haven't got back to him in a while but was left with the impression that he could get me the part and a part number. If anyone knows it, please pass it along. Otherwise, I'll [pass it along when I get to the cables stage. Keep us posted on the progress. Bill

[YDOC462]

nice to know about the wheel. i got all the wiring and hoses ripped out today, planned on getting the steering out tomorrow before work. i assumed the center-cap on the wheel pops off and there would be a nut behind that to remove the wheel from the steering assembly. wrong?

the boat had dual cable in it but it seems to be seized up and sticking. gonna replace with all new.

[frogII]

looks like you got your work cut out for ya
have fun

love the wake board/pole rack on the wall , did you make that
can you get a closer pic

thanks

[Sonik]

From the looks it should be good and rotten, I think everyone that has done one will agree the more rotten the better for a restoration project.

The one problem with reusing the steering wheel is it has a square shaft and the new systems will have a 3/4" tapered shaft. Someone had a adapter made but I can't remember who it was.

I agree with Chet 110%...rotten is good. Ask some of us how we know I am still finding fiberglass dust in things like my garage stereo, TV, and DVD player in places you wouldn't think it could get. You'll understand if you spend as much time grinding as some of us have, that life is good when you can have the whole hull cleaned out in a matter of a few hours with a cutoff wheel, putty knife and a shopvac.

As far as the steering wheel adapter, RONNIE on Scream & Fly had an adapter milled by a buddy of his to use the original wheel with a teleflex style taper-hub helm.

Jeff

[YDOC462]

frog, man i found those racks on e bay for like 20 bucks no shipping. they work great. wouldnt be hard to make but easier to buy.
i just had the rods thrown back behind the boards, but you could easily notch some places for rod holders.

[YDOC462]

well i had a bbq pit project i had to wrap up today so i didnt get much done on the boat. i was able to get the wiring, speakers, and dash out. also took the shop vac and cleaned her up a bit to inspect the floor a bit more.

walking in the boat you can feel an "air pocket" under the glass where the core should be from stern to bow. i think it has completely disinergrated! cleaned up under the bow down to the hull and everything looks good. plan on attacking it with a saws-all or cutting wheel this week. i should be able to just cut down the high ridges length wise and pull the whole peice out, then vacuum the crums underneath up, hopefully.

i was going to leave the tunnel for last to keep some kind of support, until i get down to the hull everywhere and get the airboxes removed. good idea?

nothing much to see but heres a few pics







see the foam in deck. not really worried about it but will be removed when i get bored one day.
also heres the boxes running down both sides i plan on removing

[77viper]

I just got my foam boxes out and it was a bit of a pain. I cut along the floor, then made a cut as far back on the top as I could and removed the foam with a long pry bar. Once I got most of the foam out I was able to cut the rest of the top out from the inside.

When I did my viper I took everything out at once so I could also grind it all then. I would think it would be a mess having part of the new core in and trying to grind anything. That and depending on what resin you are going to use if you lay it up fast enough you won't need to sand it at all once you start.

[YDOC462]

that was my plan, to remove everything before starting to grind, finish grinding everything, then start putting new material in. i might have worded it wrong before (never was good in eng class lol). my question was, would it benifit me to leave the tunnel in for support to stand on during removal process, removing it last before grinding?

ill attack the boxes in the way you did, sounds like a good approach. are you replacing? i didnt plan on it. i planned on just cleaning up the sides maybe making storage boxes/supports.