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Dumb question, but I have to ask.

Have questions about fiberglass, gel-coat, or core repairs well as composite questions?
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silkeysak
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Dumb question, but I have to ask.

Post: # 11381Post silkeysak »

I had an Action Marine built in the 80's that had no balsa core. Just fiberglass and stringers. It weighed close to my Viking. When the core goes bad, why doesn't anyone just build up with fiberglass instead of the balsa core. Is it a bonding problem? Extra weight? Some of those old Action's are still around and kicking. What is the necessity of the balsa, besides going back to the original design. I know there must be a very good reason, but I would like to know what it is. I am going to inspect my core soon, and would like to know my options, if (or probably when) I run into something I don't like. This boat has a fairly new floor and was re- gelcoted, but that really doesn't mean squat. I like to hope that the core and transom were also taken care of, as there is no evidence of a weak transom and the hull seems solid with a mallet test. I have been running a heavy looper all summer with no sign of fatigue, but I don't want to risk a hull failure to find out. The floor and gelcoat could have been done just to get rid of the boat to some previous owner. I know someone has a good answer.
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Re: Dumb question, but I have to ask.

Post: # 11383Post 77viper »

when I was doing my viper I had talked to the fiberglass guy our dealership uses about not using a core. He had done it with success on a couple streams but the downside is that it adds weight to get the same strength. I thought about it but the primary use would be racing so I figured I would stick with balsa. I still think balsa is the way to go, in the end it's not much more work than solid glass would be.
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75 viper 2.4 200, 130 shot of NOS
91 vegas loaned out
79 vking project 2.5 280
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Re: Dumb question, but I have to ask.

Post: # 11406Post silkeysak »

Thanks Chet. I was thinking that since the Viking didn't have so much core area, it might not add too much extra weight, and you don't have to worry at all about it getting wet. Downside is you still have to grind out all the old core material. What weight fiberglass or mesh did your guy say he used, or was it a combination? I want to make a decision about this before it starts getting cold in a couple of months.
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Re: Dumb question, but I have to ask.

Post: # 11409Post 77viper »

I didn't get enough info from him, I will ask next time I see him. I'm kind of curious myself.
Samari on s&f
Chet Olson

75 viper 2.4 200, 130 shot of NOS
91 vegas loaned out
79 vking project 2.5 280
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Re: Dumb question, but I have to ask.

Post: # 11418Post VultureNo2 »

I also went with the balsa. If you make sure to get a sandwich of balsa made that water cannot get into. It'll out last you and me. The materials are better than the original and the workmanship I did was way better than HS did. For the strength I got and the reduced weight, I would go the same route next time. I think the balsa would probably be cheaper then all those glass layers also. Jmo Bill
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Re: Dumb question, but I have to ask.

Post: # 11423Post silkeysak »

Thanks for the info Bill. You may be right about the balsa being cheaper than the fiberglass. I just wonder how thick you would need to go with the 'glass. I can't see needing 1/2" to get the same strength as the balsa, but I may be wrong. From what I've seen the Viking needs less surface area reinforced, so I would like to compare my options. Like I said at the top, my Action Marine was all glass, and just as light and fast as a 'Stream. I got to wonder if they were trying to cut cost when they decided to use the balsa.
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Re: Dumb question, but I have to ask.

Post: # 11426Post 77viper »

I talked to our glass guy today and he said he would do about 4 extra layers of 1708 and possibly add stringers. He also made it clear every boat will be different and may need more or less. He is not a fan of balsa.
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91 vegas loaned out
79 vking project 2.5 280
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Re: Dumb question, but I have to ask.

Post: # 11437Post VultureNo2 »

My Vulture is the same core as the Vking. I considered glass only, but the more I thought about it, the more complicated it was getting. Stringers met the floor, before glass, but the bulheads went on top. I didn't want to change the height of the material that the floor sat on or height between the stringers. The core came up the sides just far enough that the plywood for the floor sits on it on the sides. I was doing a family boat and was less concerned with weight than getting a good bond along the sides. Again, my choice. I think there is more than 1 right answer to this question. Depends what you are looking to do with the boat. I like you, questioned every step along the way. Good thought process. Keep it up. Bill 8-)
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Re: Dumb question, but I have to ask.

Post: # 11440Post silkeysak »

Thanks for that info Chet. It helps as a starting point. Bill, I also appreciate your experience with this. I guess I wouldn't expect much to go the same with an all glass resto. The point you make about the floor riding on the stringers and meeting it properly out toward the gunwales is very important. Fortunately I am a custom furniture and custom cabinet designer/builder, with over 30 yrs related carpentry experience. My weak point is working with fiberglass, so I am going to need all the help I can get for that end of the process. The boat builders in Key West used a glue they called gorilla snot to bed the stringers on semi-planing lobster boats, so I'm going to call my brother and see if he can find out what the stuff is really called. If I can pull this off, I may find an easier way to reinforce this hull. I appreciate both you guys help, because I need as much as I can get. Thanks, Rick.
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Re: Dumb question, but I have to ask.

Post: # 11441Post luckydog »

On stringers and other jointed points my dad used to say "no square corners" (round off inside and outside corners). Easier to keep the air out and lays up nicer/neater/stronger.
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