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More leg room, yes! There was a fiberglass ridge and deck under the bow. I'm putting it back in and extending the floor some for more leg rm. For some reason the floor was stopped short about 10" short from where it would lay in the deck going under the bow. It does sound like all personal prefrence. like it was said these where built like crap from factory and held together so any improvement can't hurt.

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As far as stringer wood, I used Douglas Fir because it was recommended by Gerald Gangle (the boat builder). It's denser than Hem fir which most construction wood is. I added a 1 1/2 oz mat and woven roving in the hull before the stringers and core. This gave a good base for the stringers to lay on With a good radius on the top corners of the stringer and the bottom "fillet", adding proper fiberglass over the stringer and onto the hull will spread the "shear" line wayyyy out. Then, after the core is bedded in, another "fillet" radius is added where the core meets the stringer and glass over the core and over the stringer.
Since I knew where the bottom of the floor sat on each side, I was able to put a straight edge across and measure down to the pad. I had around 4". I knew a 2x4 was 3 1/2" so I needed 1/2" of glass. After the mat and roving overlapped in the pad and the stringer was test fit again, I re-measured and now was 1/4" below the floor line. When all done, I was level across.
Sorry for the rambling but if overlooked, you'll have a messed up floor.

I believe the air bladder top skin help hold the bow hull from spreading outward. Like the bottom cord of a roof truss. Imagine an up-side-down truss. Cut the bottom cord out and pull down on the tails.......You get the idea.

I put in several bulkheads and left the top open. My personal preference.