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I thought it may be but it came with the motor I bought. What effect wil too much set back have? Should I try to find a smaller one ?

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i would think it would porpoise more with the motor(weight) that far off trans.

Would moving the fuel tank and battery up front help any or would the changing weight of the tank as it gets low make it worse?

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Stellix wrote:Would moving the fuel tank and battery up front help any or would the changing weight of the tank as it gets low make it worse?

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dont want tank in front!! not only weight change but sloshing also

Didn't think about that

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I was just looking through my supplies and relized that all i have is 1708 cloth . should i lay down some of this 1708 then the balsa with another layer of this 1708 on top of the balsa? what should i use to cover the stringers and transom ? Should i put a lyer of cloth or mat between my plywood for the transom? Should i put a lyer of mat between the plywood and the transom or just resin between them? I order some 1 1/2 oz chopped strand mat to do some other repairs on the splash well and dash , would this mat also work for the floor or should i use 1708 there too? sorry for all the questions

you can use 1708 for just about all of it. it is a fairly heavy glass and will be challenging around tight corners though. when you build the transom, I would put a layer of glass in between there. remember the wood will absorb some resin so don't be shy with it. and it may also be used for smaller repairs if you wish. it just might build up fast and need sanding. a small amount of other glass will be cheap if you are concerned with that. when laying core, I chose to put a layer of 17oz down under and on top of core. I wanted something fresh in there. just personal preference. start getting it done

With the 1708 does the chopped strand side go down and the cloth side up? Would I be better off to use regular chopped strand mat to cover the floor and to do some splashwell repairs?

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I do believe the chopped side goes down, and the repairs might be easier with the chopped strand. From what I have seen, it makes a smoother transition at the edges of the glass fibers. you can tear it and feather it out at the far sides of the repair to make a surface that needs less sanding. It can be done with the fabric type, and im sure it can be done with 1708 also. mine was all 1700, and im using it for everything im doing. did bottom repairs, under the core, top of core and transom with the same 1700 double bias biaxial +/-45 . like I said, it wasn't smooth at the edges of the repairs because I cut it with scissors and it is thick. so I had to sand it down a lot to make it smooth at the far ends. I hope that makes sense

Makes perfect sense. I have work with the regular mat a good bit over the years. I've been in the body shop business since 1989. About 10 of those years in a heavy truck shop and we did a good bit of fiberglass repairs. I just want to make sure this boat is done properly, I only want to do it once. Too much itching to have to do it again in a couple years from a bad repair. I checked the fit of the deck to the hull today while it's sitting on the trailer. I was thinking about building a jig for the hull but it seems to be sitting even on the trailer. It's a custom built trailer made just for this boat and it seems to be supporting the hull fine. I'll start getting some good pictures soon, I want to document the work as I go.Thanks for all the info so far, I'm sure I'll have many more questions along the way

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