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Foam Core
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- The new guy
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Foam Core
How difficult is it to replace the balsa core with closed cell foam? Can some-one give me a step by step? The balsa on my boat is good from the dash forward. I plan to replace up to deck. If I go with foam should I remove the complete core? Is the foam core as strong as the balsa?
Chazz
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- Hydrostream Addict
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Re: Foam Core
Hi, your questions are more complicated than they appear. As I understand foam and balsa are essentially installed the same. But why foam? Because It doesn't rot...as fast. If not sealed properly it'll hold water (weight) and ultimately rot, just like wood. ...just sayin.
As far as only replacing part of the core, I can only think if two possible issues. If you can slide a blade between the wood and the glass, it's not bonded anymore, so continue removing. Secondly, I would be concerned about using a butt joint where the old meets new, as it might be a little weak.
Here's a link to a foam recore by ccRick... http://www.hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=85.
As far as only replacing part of the core, I can only think if two possible issues. If you can slide a blade between the wood and the glass, it's not bonded anymore, so continue removing. Secondly, I would be concerned about using a butt joint where the old meets new, as it might be a little weak.
Here's a link to a foam recore by ccRick... http://www.hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=85.
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- Hydrostream know it all
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- Location: Sitka Alaska / Okanogan,WA
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Re: Foam Core
Balsa vs. foam is sometimes a heated topic. I like both and depending on how forces are applied, each has it's strong points and weaknesses.
Poor lay-up practices leading to water intrusion gave balsa a bad name. It wasn't the balsa's fault. Foam is more tolerant of getting wet and not turning to mush. In a "nut shell", the core material is used to separate two skins of fiberglass to create a rigid panel . Use what makes you feel good. I use Balsa.
Here's a Viper rebuild thread I wrote for Mark Casper. It explains how to and why with lots of pictures. It's a good read and will get you familiar with the process. You may not need to split the hull and deck. I'm sure you will not have any more damage than I had.
http://hydrostream.org/ArticleArchives/AlaskaViperResto.htm
Poor lay-up practices leading to water intrusion gave balsa a bad name. It wasn't the balsa's fault. Foam is more tolerant of getting wet and not turning to mush. In a "nut shell", the core material is used to separate two skins of fiberglass to create a rigid panel . Use what makes you feel good. I use Balsa.
Here's a Viper rebuild thread I wrote for Mark Casper. It explains how to and why with lots of pictures. It's a good read and will get you familiar with the process. You may not need to split the hull and deck. I'm sure you will not have any more damage than I had.
http://hydrostream.org/ArticleArchives/AlaskaViperResto.htm
Ron Pratt
Okanogan, WA
Viper/ 2.5L 200 Merc (SOLD)
1991 "the last" Virage/ 15" 280
2003 9’ Mini Virage/ 15 hp Honda 4-stroke
1989 Voyager/ 300 Promax
1989 HST / 2.5L 200 Merc
http://www.prattcustoms.com
Okanogan, WA
Viper/ 2.5L 200 Merc (SOLD)
1991 "the last" Virage/ 15" 280
2003 9’ Mini Virage/ 15 hp Honda 4-stroke
1989 Voyager/ 300 Promax
1989 HST / 2.5L 200 Merc
http://www.prattcustoms.com
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- The new guy
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Re: Foam Core
When I worked at HydroStream, I was taught that the purpose of the core was to separate the layers of glass. That way it gave strength and rigidity similar to an I-Beam.
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