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I have a 79 V-King that is getting a complete restore. Floor-Core-Transom, lightened up and going to “blue Print” the hull. And complete paint or gel coat..Not sure on that part yet.

I needed to separate the deck from the hull for easy access for me to be able to do all the glass work, and I am going to add a brace to the deck, so if anyone walks on it, it won't crack. Before I started to dis assemble the boat I noticed how weak the deck is on the bow.

I also like the motor well in place, and when attached properly to the transom, no need for a knee in the middle. I will add a knee on both sides of the transom, leaving enough room in between for a fuel tank.

I will say it was tough to remove the deck from the hull. If HydroStream had put the effort into the floor and core, like they did attaching the deck to hull...we would have far fewer threads about re coring these boats...imho. I've pulled several boat decks before for major hull work, and this one took the cake.

I had originally decided to delete the flotation boxes, but now that the deck is off I can better see how they are constructed and like what it does for overall hull stability at the transom, tying the hull sides to hull bottom and transom.
I'll still gut them of the wet foam I am finding, and re-glass them in place, keeping them as light as possible.

This will likely take me a while..I work slow, and in bursts.

I'll try to update as it moves along, with annotations and pics. Got to resize the pictures I have and will add them later.
James

Looking forward to seeing your progress. I'm about to start restoring an 80 Viper, and will also need to separate the deck and hull. Quick question if you don't mind....i've read practically every restoration thread on here and cant figure out the process of reattaching the deck and hull. Since the original aluminum rubrail is pretty much garbage after removal, I assume that the hull and deck just get bonded back together. Epoxy and/or resin between, then re-riveted, then glassed on the inside seam, then an aftermarket rubber rubrail after all's said and done?

Just saying...

OH Wow...tough crowd...

Separating the deck was a PIA. But, when I reset it back in place I believe at this time I'll attach it with epoxy and csm. No rivets, because they were there to hold the stock rail in place while it was being crimped.

I also did a moisture check on the foam in the floatation boxes, and yea..it was wet...so the boxes are coming out. After cutting into them for a look see...their not that structural imo..very thin and looks like designed to just hold the foam.

I will run an extra stringer where they were, just to be sure but the boat is more firm than I imagined with the deck off.

I will take pics as I go...

James

I like it! The foam was nothing more than flotation foam. Unless you really want to, there is no reason you need to put it back in.

[ Post made via Android ]

True, as I don't want to add a possible sponge back in. It was dry up top, but wet towards the bottom rear...go figure..
I am using a "No Wood" rebuild. And eliminating these boxes will remove some unneeded weight.

Thinking about a Harbor Freight 10 x 20 canopy to move this project outside for the grinding. And then spraying the hull.
I like the mat black Chet used on the bottom. I need to research that out..Any ideas what he used specifically?

I am so sorry about his blow over, and so glad he didn't get hurt bad....the boat is just that..a boat that can be replaced...but a persons well being can not be undone.

Lots of work to do yet on mine, and will post up as I go...I am slow so please keep this in mind

James

Yeah, I work pretty slow too if you cant tell. lol I have pretty limited time between work (truck driver) and kiddo. Single dad problems.

Got a little more done in the past few days.

Got the foam boxes out and all the foam removed...man, can't hardly believe how much of that stuff there is...Amazing. Definitely lost some poundage there.
Also got the deck flipped over and assessing what needs to be done there..Yep...more rotten wood in the wood frame that encompasses the dash and surrounding the cockpit.

Still have the small panels in the floor area up front to cut out and get the core exposed up there for grinding.
Got a coupon from Harbor Freight for a 10 x 20 canopy $99. Going to move this hull outside for grinding.

That wood behind the dash and up in the deck has never been wet, and it is rotting away. Makes me wonder about some of the stories I hear about old Streams that have been kept "dry" and no need of a core...At least with mine it is all rotten. Found 2 areas so far where the core in the hull is cracked, but no hull breaches found yet. This boat was an accident waiting to happen. The guy I bought it from did say it was real squirrely over 70..I figured it was because of the stock rubber engine mounts and the steering cables not adjusted up for zero play...bet the hull was flexing some and causing some handling issues.

Or maybe he has never had a pad walker...

James

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wow, this restoration is looking great....keep at it!

Will be a great restore!

what material will you use on the transom?


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It has been to nasty of weather to work outside (read wet n cold, snow in the forecast) grinding the last bit that needs done, so I dragged it into my basement and commencing to draft up my stringer layout. Need some opinions.
To many stringers on the transom? Over Kill? I will be tying in the top of the transom stringers to the beefed up motor well when the deck goes back on.
This is not a comp V-King, so the lay up is thicker and heavier from the factory. I am trying to lighten it up and have removed (not done yet) all unnecessary items. I do want an open hull/stringer set up.

This is just mocked up with Styrofoam panels from Lowe's. The wood bars across the boat are screwed in place keeping flex to a minimum. Actually there is almost no flex with the deck off. I do have the hull supported well on the existing trailer...for now. When it comes time for the actual measuring/cutting and glassing in, it will be setting on my concrete level floor, with necessary V supports.

Thoughts or suggestions ???
...still working out the front pad there where the seat will go.

Still need a floor support up under the bow area, and am wanting to keep it to a minimum for weight concerns, but do realize it is an structural/integral part of the V-bow area.
Ideas? Considering building a battery mount up front in case I need some weight up there. The bow will likely be light enough...

And a few pictures.....