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Core bond...pre-made retail or mix your own?
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Re: Core bond...pre-made retail or mix your own?
After you grind down the hull, you vacuum the leftover dust, give it a wipe down with acetone (to dissolve any remaining particulate the vacuum doesnt get), then you should be putting down a new layer of glass first - 1.5oz chopped strand mat for example. You need to replace the glass you ground away. Hulls are thin enough as is, and you just made it thinner by grinding.
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Re: Core bond...pre-made retail or mix your own?
PLEASE ask questions. That's what we're here for. You get to learn from our mistakes.
Grind and wipe, broom, blow or vacuum. DO NOT wipe with anything but a broom or towel.
You see,.... at this point, if you could look at the ground surface with a microscope, you would see inside the grinding ridges is little fibers and fractured resin particles. This surface greatly aids in adhesion. If you wipe it with acetone for instance, you will lay over the little fibers and actually contaminate the surface. (Adam and I can agree to dis-agree on this part ) My mentor was adamant about using any solvents after grinding.
Wipe a clean piece of glass with acetone and let flash off. You will be amazed at film left behind.
Read this article I wrote for the registry. It's a little lengthy but I put in a lot of pictures and explanations as to why. May take some of the mystery out of your project.
http://hydrostream.org/ArticleArchives/AlaskaViperResto.htm
There are 5 parts to this build. The first two have the most info
Grind and wipe, broom, blow or vacuum. DO NOT wipe with anything but a broom or towel.
You see,.... at this point, if you could look at the ground surface with a microscope, you would see inside the grinding ridges is little fibers and fractured resin particles. This surface greatly aids in adhesion. If you wipe it with acetone for instance, you will lay over the little fibers and actually contaminate the surface. (Adam and I can agree to dis-agree on this part ) My mentor was adamant about using any solvents after grinding.
Wipe a clean piece of glass with acetone and let flash off. You will be amazed at film left behind.
Read this article I wrote for the registry. It's a little lengthy but I put in a lot of pictures and explanations as to why. May take some of the mystery out of your project.
http://hydrostream.org/ArticleArchives/AlaskaViperResto.htm
There are 5 parts to this build. The first two have the most info
Ron Pratt
Okanogan, WA
Viper/ 2.5L 200 Merc (SOLD)
1991 "the last" Virage/ 15" 280
2003 9’ Mini Virage/ 15 hp Honda 4-stroke
1989 Voyager/ 300 Promax
1989 HST / 2.5L 200 Merc
http://www.prattcustoms.com
Okanogan, WA
Viper/ 2.5L 200 Merc (SOLD)
1991 "the last" Virage/ 15" 280
2003 9’ Mini Virage/ 15 hp Honda 4-stroke
1989 Voyager/ 300 Promax
1989 HST / 2.5L 200 Merc
http://www.prattcustoms.com
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- Hydrostream know it all
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Re: Core bond...pre-made retail or mix your own?
One thing Adam mentioned that I agree with and did myself. Adding a layer of glass before your core. My hull was so messed up, we added some woven roving on the mat before the core. I was going to be at or near 100 mph and if the original bottom decided to delaminate, I wanted some material under my core.
Ron Pratt
Okanogan, WA
Viper/ 2.5L 200 Merc (SOLD)
1991 "the last" Virage/ 15" 280
2003 9’ Mini Virage/ 15 hp Honda 4-stroke
1989 Voyager/ 300 Promax
1989 HST / 2.5L 200 Merc
http://www.prattcustoms.com
Okanogan, WA
Viper/ 2.5L 200 Merc (SOLD)
1991 "the last" Virage/ 15" 280
2003 9’ Mini Virage/ 15 hp Honda 4-stroke
1989 Voyager/ 300 Promax
1989 HST / 2.5L 200 Merc
http://www.prattcustoms.com
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Re: Core bond...pre-made retail or mix your own?
Thank you both. I will definitely look at your posts.
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Re: Core bond...pre-made retail or mix your own?
I suggested the acetone wipe as I've read online that this should be done to remove the dust and dirt leftover from grinding that sweeping and vacuuming doesn't get.
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Re: Core bond...pre-made retail or mix your own?
alaskastreamin wrote: ↑Mar 15, 2018 1:40 pm
Look closely at the blue core bond, see the solid circles? That's a slight depression from over grinding. The putty has filled this void and I haven't lost any strength here..
Is the core-bond already blue? Or did you add blue carpenter's chalk? (heard this is a trick to help see air bubbles better)
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- Hydrostream know it all
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- Joined: Feb 10, 2012 8:01 pm
- Location: Sitka Alaska / Okanogan,WA
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Re: Core bond...pre-made retail or mix your own?
The core bond is opaque and the hardener is blue.
Ron Pratt
Okanogan, WA
Viper/ 2.5L 200 Merc (SOLD)
1991 "the last" Virage/ 15" 280
2003 9’ Mini Virage/ 15 hp Honda 4-stroke
1989 Voyager/ 300 Promax
1989 HST / 2.5L 200 Merc
http://www.prattcustoms.com
Okanogan, WA
Viper/ 2.5L 200 Merc (SOLD)
1991 "the last" Virage/ 15" 280
2003 9’ Mini Virage/ 15 hp Honda 4-stroke
1989 Voyager/ 300 Promax
1989 HST / 2.5L 200 Merc
http://www.prattcustoms.com
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- The new guy
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Re: Core bond...pre-made retail or mix your own?
This is the post alaskastreamin
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- Hydrostream know it all
- Posts: 512
- Joined: Feb 10, 2012 8:01 pm
- Location: Sitka Alaska / Okanogan,WA
- Has thanked: 5 times
- Been thanked: 158 times
- Contact:
Re: Core bond...pre-made retail or mix your own?
Ron Pratt
Okanogan, WA
Viper/ 2.5L 200 Merc (SOLD)
1991 "the last" Virage/ 15" 280
2003 9’ Mini Virage/ 15 hp Honda 4-stroke
1989 Voyager/ 300 Promax
1989 HST / 2.5L 200 Merc
http://www.prattcustoms.com
Okanogan, WA
Viper/ 2.5L 200 Merc (SOLD)
1991 "the last" Virage/ 15" 280
2003 9’ Mini Virage/ 15 hp Honda 4-stroke
1989 Voyager/ 300 Promax
1989 HST / 2.5L 200 Merc
http://www.prattcustoms.com
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