I got my three tube Adapter through the person who goes by "Reaction19" on S&F.

Here is a link with the details. Easy to build yourself as well.

http://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?159817-Hose-connection-for-nosecone

Thanks for the input guys. Where can I buy one of those adapters? I need one. For a tank I'm useing the largest size plastic storage bins you can buy at walmart. You have to have two, one inside the other, to keep them from collapsing. The downside to the tank flush is the exhaust carbon/oil residue that gets on the lower unit when I use it, and the end of the hose is covered with it. I guess that's better than blowing a powerhead. Thanks for clearing that up for me guys. I appreciate it. You can't get that kind of quick help anywhere but here.

The hose connection is for for back flushing only rising small pebbles and sand backwards threw the systemso they dont go farther in to the system. I back flush every other time I go out .This is real important if you boat in salt or brackish water.you must use a tank, nose cone or that cool looking apperatos the LSaupe has shown . Please dont burn your engine down by not supplying it with enough water as that would suck. Find aplastic barrel cut it in half use it for a tank .Lot of places hve themhotel for laundry soap hospitals ect most well give them awayor charge 5$ way cheaper then a motorjust some food for thought

The tubes actually go into the three water inlets on your nose cose. It is a slip fit and the friction will hold it in there against the water pressure.

Unfortunately I dont have any input on your other question concerning your other fitting. Just have old cross-flow stuff here.

How are you attaching that? Are you putting the three lines in the lowater transfer tube on the side of the gearcase? My OMC manual shows a flush point on the back of the lower cowling. It has a thread that is the exact size of a water hose. The manual says you can flush here. Should you only do it with the motor off? All the later 90's loopers have this receptacle. The telltale spout screws into this fitting. You remove it to screw in the hose. I don't want to melt an impeller, but is the manual wrong?

I use one of the 3 tube adapters. Works great.

If you are putting water in through the tell tale while running it will melt the impeller even though the block shows pressure. If you are just flushing it out you can put water in through there but just don't run it.

At the last place I worked we had to use the dyno or lake test, we didn't have a full test tank so we used water tanks for cattle and could submerge the gearcase with the dyno on it.

those thing ain't worth a crap. Had no luck with mine. I pull the hose off.

When I run it on the hose, I see water coming out of the water pickup holes on the bottom of the cone, but, better safe than sorry. I think I will follow your lead. My only problem is, I have to have the timing set by my mechanic with a dyno (just changed timer base). I guess he'll have to run it on the hose. I think I'm getting water back down to the impeller, with the hose, though. If not, would I still show 15-20 lbs of pressure? Thanks for your imput, but I want to clear this up if I can.

I do the same as Jeff, dunk the whole thing in a old cooler.

If you try and run the motor with the water going in through your tell tale it will burn up your impeller. very little if any goes down to the impeller.