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Ok guys, I’m gonna go for it!

I have been playing with our commercial sewing machine and getting comfortable using it so time to add another feather to my hat.
It can’t be that difficult if you have the right tools and the patience.

Sailrite.com and their YouTube videos show you step by step.

Last summer I reupholstered our Sea Ray minus the back to back seats ( which I bought online) as I wasn’t confident I could pull it off. That project turned out pretty darn nice. Next, I made a padded alien cowl cover.

Now I’m making the mini Virage and Voyager upholstery.

Years ago I made the Virage shells and had a shop stitch up the upholstery for $3500.00.

Here’s pictures of these.

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Moving forward,
The Voyager was advertised as having nice upholstery. For the most part, it was decent. My nice and the sellers nice weren’t the same.
There were a few small holes and some hard areas with cracked vinyl.

After seeing a ‘97 Voyager in person, I wanted to “modernize “ my ‘89 model.

After looking very carefully at the pictures I had, I cut out new seat shells and side panels.

Dan Ryan graciously sent me several pictures with measurements of his interior so I could have a good reference.

The rear seat shell is 1/2” plywood , front shells are roto-molded plastic which I narrowed 2-1/2”, the contoured bow seat cushion bases were 2 layers of 1/8” utility plywood which were laminated together with fiberglass on both outer surfaces and screwed to the boat to hold the shape, the side panels are 1/4” plywood.

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My Sailrite order arrived with foam ( medium and firm density) in 1” and 2”, foam spray glue, 15 yards of vinyl, 50’ of black piping, a foam cutter, and a long nose pneumatic stapler. $1000.00.

It took a full day to cut the foam.

The 1” firm is used on the arm rest top band, and the bucket seat cushions bolsters.

Next up, patterning

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Reinforced plastic sheeting is used with a light spray glue to stick to the foam.
Trace the edges, mark centerline and cut half.
Fold on centerline and see if the cut edge matched the line on other half. If not, adjust pattern. The foam will compress so trim to lowest of either edge ( if within 1/2”).

The back of my bucket seat had two angles so I made two patterns.

I’m doing the seat bottoms after I get the rest sewn so I can make sure the stripes align.

Add 1/2” when you trace the pattern in the vinyl where you will stitch for your seam allowance.

I have to go back to Alaska for 4 weeks. I’ll stitch when I get back.

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Mounting panels when you don’t have easy access to the back side.

Plastic fender well push pins.

Wow! Looking great Ron. I need to build a back seat and possibly redo a few front buckets for another project in picking up very very soon. Just need to find the time to pick it up.

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My sewing machine arrived and man it is so smooth!!
You can limit the motor speed so you don’t get in trouble.
I can stitch at one stitch a second if I’m going around a corner.

Anyway, ... I transferred my plastic patterns to vinyl then glued to 1/4” sew foam. This gives “fullness” to the pleats.

I started building the rear side panels then jumped on to the front side panels/ back rests. That was two days work.

I couldn’t staple the upholstery yet as I’m waiting for 1/4” SS staples.

I am hitting the rear bench next.

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This is Dan Ryan’s ‘97 Voyager interior I’m copying.

I’m not knocking his interior by any means!! It’s gorgeous!!!


Here you can see there is no sew foam behind the vinyl. Looks like a flat tire between the stitching. This is what I’m trying to avoid. The French seams are really wavy.

I never noticed this till I started zooming in to see detail.
I did practice doing French seams and since I have the time, my 12” test strips turned out perfect.
A real confidence booster.

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I kind of want too learn how to do that but not sure I would have the patients. lol Looking great so far though.

Spent 8 hours sewing , fitting, adjusting, sewing, repeat.....
To get to this point.
Fitting like a glove so far.

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