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bobs nose cone from early 1990s question

The place for mechanics, racers, or anyone seeking engine-related technical help.
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mitchielpricer
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bobs nose cone from early 1990s question

Post: # 19897Post mitchielpricer »

i have the 235 hp crossflow evinrude v/6 on my 1988 v king the question is on the bobs nose cone mine has the 5/8 water inlet connecting to the nose cone fitting. i noticed thru the years when i run hard i cools fine when i slow down in a no wake i likes to creep up to about 180f now some of the bobs nose cones had 2 water inlet fitting 1 on each side im the transome water pick up can i just add one to the oposing side to get more water in.. oh yea no issues with water pump or flushing the motor. gary p
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Surface Scratcher
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Re: bobs nose cone from early 1990s question

Post: # 19905Post Surface Scratcher »

Good water pressure at no wake speed?
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mitchielpricer
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Re: bobs nose cone from early 1990s question

Post: # 19906Post mitchielpricer »

good water presure then run wot then go back in nowake start heating up this has done this sense ive had this nose cone the real question is when did bobs machine switch to the duel water inlet cone design. mitchiel
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mercman24
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Re: bobs nose cone from early 1990s question

Post: # 20148Post mercman24 »

First of all do u have an internal temperature gauge or external?I mean is the sending unit in the waterjacket or on the head?outboard engines especially the carburated ones,really dont have a temperature gauge.they have a worning horn.ur 235hp cross scavanaged outboard ,with thermostats,runs between 123degrees F 163degrees F.the over heat alarm comes on at 210F and stops buxzing at 175F once it is activated.u have two heat syncs on the engine.one on the port head and one on the starboard head.as long as ur thermostats arent sticking and ur water pressure is good, ur fine .remember,when ur up and running,ur at full advance on ur timing.u say its running cool.that tells me the cooling system is working fine.when u are at full advance u are actually putting more heat in the engine by making it fire sooner to accommodate the more amount of fuel ur introducing to the engine.also u are forcing more water because u are at a higher speed.when u slow the boat u slow the water flow.the heat is still in the engine.it usually does climb 10 to 15 degrees once u come back to idle in forward gear.boobs nosecones water cavity isnt as big as stock,its close.as long as ur water pressure gauge is showing good pressure through the RPM range and ur hot horn isnt activating u have no worries.remember u have an outboard not a stern drive :-) :-) :-)

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mercman24
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Re: bobs nose cone from early 1990s question

Post: # 20149Post mercman24 »

By the way,I havent did a nosecone in years but u use to be able to get it with one water line and two water lines.alot of companys are discontinuing the nosecones due to the fact they are making gearcases that fit the bill.cresent leading edge with low water pick ups.alot less maintenance.food for thought :-)

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mitchielpricer
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Re: bobs nose cone from early 1990s question

Post: # 20150Post mitchielpricer »

it has a external sensor to the guage .and my question is when did bobs machine start makeing the 2 inlet nose cone . the one inlet water design is clearly smaller than a stock 1/2 in npt installed in gearcase opening compaired to the large vents on both sides with stock there for under the conditions i described would get less water. i added the 2nd water inlet fitting and piped it to the transome water pickup dont know on any change havent had it out but thank you for the input. mitchiel
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mercman24
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Re: bobs nose cone from early 1990s question

Post: # 20151Post mercman24 »

They were making the dual pipe nosecone in the early 90"s just look up bob"s machine shop on google.they are still alive and kicking.I ordered velocity stacks last year for an old mod vp I put together.alex

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