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In the past, I have replaced several transoms (non Hydrostream boats) with seagul SeaCast material and have had great luck with it. I'm doing my first recore / transom on my 1976 Viper. I was curious if anyone has used this material in a Hydrostream application??

On the other boats I used a saw to remove the inside of the transom, leaving the inner and outer fiberglass to act as mold/form. The seacast has similar properties to fiberglass in that its two parts and builds heat and bonds well. I thought about doing this and then adding some extra fiberglass and braces on each side of the transom to tie it into the sides of the boat to gain some strength there.

Appreciate any thought, thanks!!

SEACAST...... NO NO NO NO NO NO NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That garbage should never be used, especially in a high performance application. If you do decide to use it, never tell anyone you did and never sell the boat.

Just a heads up. lol

Thank you for the info!! This is my first Hydrostream re-core and transom, so thats why I wanted to join this group. Tremendous amount of knowledge on here, hoping I will ask the right questions and not make any rookie mistakes (at least no mistakes that become a safety issue).

Thanks again!

So onto my next question........ I'm not planning to removing the top cap, and my thought is to build a "jig" for the boat to rest in (off the trailer) while I do the re-core. Question is, how much support under the boat and on the sides do I need to keep everything as true as possible??? Do I need any support on the sides if I leave the top cap on??

Pourable transoms just arent a good high performance item. If it was, everyone would be using them from the factory. Weight is a thing too. A wood or composite transom will weigh less. That stuff is good for your little fishing boat or something. I personally wouldnt trust that stuff at 70+ mph.

As for a jig, I did my recore on the trailer. Just add another set of support bunks and something down the pad and you'll be good. Of course you can build a jig. There are a few build here where people built jigs. If you have the room to do it, it is the best way but it can certainly be done on the trailer. Now, if you do plan to remove the cap, I would most certainly use a jig just to be safe.

Thank you for the info. I made good progress this past weekend. I've decided not to remove the top cap. I did get a jig built this past weekend and got the boat set on it. I was surprised at the amount of flex in the boat, so I understand now why its so important to maintain the hull being straight while adding the core.

Is there some way to check to ensure the hull is straight, other than straight edges and a good eye before starting to lay up the core?? With the added runners under the boat and extended length of the runners I built, I feel like its as straight as it prob ever was.

I have never built or used a jig for any of my boats but with the cap on there shouldnt be much movement in the hull side to side but if the core is junk I could see the bottom flexing but that should stiffen up in the jig.