My 1974 Vector Restoration

[Hippie459MN]

Hey Russ, you just hush!

My Vulture had the original rub rail all removed when I got it and it was flush all the way around. With the stock rub rail the hull and deck are even all the way around. What you could do, get all the core and junk out, place the deck back on, get in held in place, lots of clamps or something, so its on flush all the way around, then build a jig or something to hold the shape of the hull for when you take the deck back off. And doing the core and stuff with the deck off will make it a lot easier.

Just an idea.

[RussF]

lolol I think over 10 years

[bhbestcustoms]

That's a great idea @Hippie459MN

I will most likely take a look at doing something like that. The next few days I have off so hoping to get to the store try to get some materials for a cradle and start getting it together. (Originally was planning on adding two more bunks (4 total) and doing the recore on the trailer but with a hull split in the near future think the cradle is the better choice.

I do have another question.. there are two strips of foam up under the bow on each side. Where I'm splitting the haul I am guessing I will have to remove them. What is the go to for replacement or are they really not needed? I feel like they would give some rigidity to the shell but not sure if they are just for floatation or what the original purpose was.

@RussF I certainly can't say anything I started demolition in 2012

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[bhbestcustoms]

I picked up some supplies from Home depot for the cradle build... I'm not sure about anywhere else but the wood prices are crazy here.

Wasn't sure what was needed but went with some 1/2" OSB 4x8' sheets. Hoping they are thick enough... Some straight as possible 2x6x10's and 2x4x10 that I will use for addition support (like bunks) that will run the length and some standard 2x4 that will be cut down for supports between each 4x8 sheet of plywood. As I'm writing this remembering I forgot to pick up some screws.. so that will be the next trip to the store haha. Credit to those who posted pictures of their cradles as it is where I'm basing my design from

Picture of some of the supplies

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Next step will be to do a clean of the garage bay to get everything organized and get the Vector flipped over and off the trailer to start measuring and tracing out the shape onto the sheets of plywood. If anyone has any tips or recommendations please let me know!
Will update once more progress is made probably won't be until my next days off.

Also some good news towards the middle/rear of the hull seems as the two are fitting much better then the front!!

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[AdamDK]

If you do the core and floor with the cap off and dont support it good, they may not line up when you go to put it back together.

Fiberglass likes to hold its shape, and its "flex" is simply gravity. It's not like a brand new, perfectly straight curtain rod that will eventually develop a permanent curve to it after hanging heavy drapes for 10+ years. My hull and deck were split and separated in 2017, and last year when i put my deck back on temporarily, the sides of the hull was AT MOST an inch wider on both sides. I could easily just push it in to get the lips lined up. Don't worry about it too much.
Most important thing is supporting the hull underneath prior to floor/stringer/core removal. You'll want to support as many square inches as you can, and ensure that the support underneath has as close to zero-flex as you can manage. Good luck.

[bhbestcustoms]

Update time - I have made some progress over the last little bit. Nothing real major to show but slowly getting some grinding done and area preped for more efficient work space. As well as to limit the dust into the rest of the garage.

The biggest delay has been sourcing products. Composite canada has been a huge help but having a hard time to keep stock of everything I need to get shipped out.

Seems from what I've read on here 1/2" Balsa seems to be the go to. It seems to be backorder with out an estimated arrival time.

That being said would there be any issues going with 3/8" or 5/8" for this rebuild? If not which would be the best preferred size?

I appreciate the help and hopefully can get the products sorted and delivered to finally start the actual rebuild

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[AdamDK]

You'll need more resin with 5/8ths to ensure sufficient saturation. But stiffness matters. You don't want flexing, especially in the pad. Flex leads to cracks, cracks lead to delamination. Delamination leads to injury and/or death.

If you used both, I'd suggest using the 5/8 in the pad and inner hull portion (what would be covered by the floor), and 3/8 on the outer hull portions (between floor edges and actual sides of the boat - where the float boxes were).

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